Hello again! Liza here from Oh sew crafty lei. When I saw the amazing new fabric design collection from Beckford Silk’s collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London I couldn’t wait to get started on my next silk sewing project.
I fell in love with the Eastern Fan design all the deep peacock blues and purples are just crying out to have something special made from them, in contrast I used a beautiful Damson Purple habotai silk for the lining of the jacket and the under collar. I chose a Vogue woman’s suit pattern V1870 which is a semi-fitted, lined, below the hip length jacket, a has notch collar, shoulder pads, princess seams, flaps, welt pockets and long two-piece sleeves with non-working vent and button trim. The semi-fitted high rise pants have flared legs, stitched front crease, fly zipper, contour waistband with button closure.
This pattern has a lot of structured areas (i.e. collar, cuffs and welt pockets) that can be fiddly to work out. It took me a few attempts to line up the collar correctly especially when trying to line up the pattern matching so take your time and slip stitch pieces into place before you go in with the machine stitching.
Interface is your friend when dealing with silk and a structured pattern. I used an iron on light weight interface on many of the pattern pieces to strengthen the fabric and cope with the structure of the collar area and the welt pockets. If I made this again I would recommend interfacing with a light weight interface on all the pieces and use a medium/heavy weight on the collar and the cuffs to give the suit a cleaner finish on the sharp edges of the suit jacket. I’m happy with the out-come of my piece as it will work well as a light, more relaxed jacket in the summer.
The trouser of the suit have come out so well, the waist band and zip welt I interfaced in a medium weight interface which gives the waist line more support and make it a lot easier to sew. Take your time when sewing in the zip, definitely use a zipper foot, a silk needle and interfacing. This all helps stop the fabric from puckering when putting together the layers of the fly zip.
This fabric design is so beautiful it can work for a special occasion outfit or just a day out in town. I personally have a wedding to go on New Years Eve and this suit will look amazing under the twinkling disco lights and I can’t wait to see in 2023 feeling amazing in my new V&A Eastern fan suit.
Here at Beckford Silk we collaborated with the V&A to create this silk fabric print. If you would like to know more about this collaboration then do take a look at this BLOG.